Tailored to You

I don’t believe everything must be covered up with paint.
I take the unique qualities of each piece into consideration to determine
which materials and methods will best highlight its inherent beauty.

One of a Kind

Looking for something with more character than you’ll find at those corporate furniture stores? Something unique, special… but without compromising on quality? Head to my shop! I take well-made furniture and make it beautiful.

Hunter and Gatherer

So you’ve been searching for a specific piece but haven’t found “the one.” Fear not. Let me know what you’re looking for, any measurements, material, or characteristics I should keep in mind, and I’ll hunt it down, spruce it up, and make it yours!

Your Stuff, Reimagined

Have something in your home that just doesn't thrill you? Perhaps that bureau would be better served as a tv stand. Maybe you inherited your grandmother's hutch and it would break your heart to get rid of it... but it just doesn't work with the rest of your stuff. Don't toss it just yet. Bring it over and I'll transform it into something you'll truly cherish. 

Looking to have something repainted, refinished, or restored?
Read on and hopefully I can answer some of the most frequently asked questions!

How is custom work quoted? 

It all depends on what you’re looking to have done! Email me pictures of your piece and how you’d like it customized. (Examples of what to include: Will you want the hardware replaced? Do you want it distressed? What finish do you want? Do you have inspiration pictures? Etc.) Provide me with as many details as possible so I can give you the best estimate. The materials, intricacy of work, and repairs all factor into the overall price.

Think about the piece of furniture in terms of surfaces. A chair can easily have 20 times more surfaces (the front of the legs (x4), the back of the legs (x4), the spindles in between the legs, the top and underside of the seat, the back of the chair (which has two sides), the top of the arms, underside of the arms, etc.), whereas a boxy dresser only has four flat paintable surfaces- the top, front, and sides. In this case, the dresser will be far more straightforward than the chair, and cost less.

If you’re bringing me a piece to customize, or trying to find something second hand for me to makeover, here’s the most preferable types of pieces to work on (in order from most desirable to least): 1. unfinished raw wood (it’s like a blank canvas, untouched and ready to go!), 2. wood that only has a topcoat on it, 3. stained wood, 4. painted furniture. The type of wood a piece is made out of also matters, whether you ultimately want it stained or painted. Some wood types can “bleed through” the paint (mahogany and cherry can give white paint a pink hue) and some woods aren’t great candidates for staining. Furniture that provides an easier path towards the desired makeover will be less costly, while pieces that have more factors working against your vision will cost more to achieve. Once we discuss what you’re looking to have done, I can help guide you towards what to look for and what to avoid.

Read below to learn more about the process, which might be helpful in learning what goes into a particular project and the costs associated with each element.

Want it painted?

In general, it typically costs more to paint something white, as this process requires more materials and work. Painting any color over unfinished wood is the most desirable. If the wood has a topcoat or has already been painted, then most often it will have to be stripped/sanded down before I paint it. There are some occasions where the existing finish does not need to be removed first, though it’s not the ideal.
Removing the current finish:
- If the piece has detailed carvings, curves, cutouts, beveling, etc., then I will need to either use a chemical stripping agent to remove the current finish or sand the areas by hand. This is very time consuming and will factor into the overall cost.
-  If the piece is comprised of straight edges, it is easier to sand down, and this takes less time.

Paint options:

There are several options when it comes to paint, it all depends on the piece you want painted and how you ultimately want it to look! Here are my most frequently used categories of paint:

Milk paint

• Best for giving an authentically old, lived-in, time-worn look. 

• Can have a “chippy” look when self-distressing (the milk paint can flake off of the furniture) NOTE: You won’t know until the paint dries whether or not the piece will have a lot of chipping, very little, or none. That’s part of the fun and surprise! If you definitely do not want the piece to chip, I can add a bonding agent to the paint, which will prevent chipping. (Bonding agent = $)

• The color varies! The same shade of blue can look more navy on one piece of furniture and light denim blue on another. It depends on the tone of the wood you’re painting over. Milk paint does not have a flat, uniform finish, and some colors can have more variation than others.

• Opacity ranges from solid to a more washed finish (which means the paint goes on rather thin, so with fewer coats, you can still see the wood’s character underneath the paint.

• Good for distressing

• Natural, environmentally friendly, contains no VOCs

• Best when applied directly to unfinished wood

• Requires a sealing topcoat 

• Available colors (https://shackteauinteriors.com/collections/milk-paint) but I can mix a custom color from these if you’d like 

Chalk paint

• Thickest of all paints, lends to a more textured finish and brush marks can add dimension unless sanded down. Texture works well with dark wax to give an aged patina or “antiqued” look

• Can be watered down to create a more washed paint style

• Does not require primer coat and adheres to most surfaces- bare wood, painted pieces, fabric, metal, plastic, etc.

• Good for distressing, lends to that older, lived-in look

• More expensive

• Naturally matte finish (you can add sheen with the topcoat)

• Porous, requires a finishing topcoat

Mineral Paint

• Acrylic resin, water-based, non-toxic, lead free, low VOC

• Does not require primer coat and adheres to most surfaces

• Can be used to achieve a smooth or distressed finish

• Naturally has a matte/eggshell finish and technically does not require a topcoat. Topcoat can be added to achieve a different sheen finish

Enamel/Acrylic/Alkyd/Latex paint (Benjamin Moore, General Finishes, etc.)

• Requires primer

• Self-sealing, does not require topcoat

• Smooth finish

• Variety of finish options: matte, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss, gloss

• Can be distressed, but of the options, it’s the least ideal. Distressing can oftentimes have a more “peeled” effect.
  

If you’re budget conscious, here are some things to consider!

• Does the paint require a primer ($)? (Most Ben Moore paints do, chalk paint, mineral, and milk paint do not… but they’re also typically more expensive to begin with)

• Does the paint require a topcoat ($) to seal it? (Ben Moore paint does not, chalk and milk paint do, mineral paint can go either way)

• The topcoat matters. Polyurethane requires multiple coats (labor cost $), hemp oil and salve require one coat (and are rather quick to apply), wax requires one coat but takes a bit more time due to the application and buffing process.

• The cost of the paint itself. In order of least to most expensive: Ben Moore, milk paint, mineral paint, chalk paint

If you’re between milk and chalk paint (they do have several overlapping qualities), here is an article that might help! (https://www.bobvila.com/articles/milk-paint-vs-chalk-paint/)

Deciding on a topcoat for painted pieces:

(Again, Benjamin Moore paint is self-sealing, so an additional topcoat is not necessary)

Hemp Oil:

• Food safe, solvent-free, naturally drying

• Water-resistant finish

• Adds saturation to color

• Takes 1-2 coats depending on how hemp oil gets absorbed

• Soft, low shine

Wax:

• Muted, almost matte finish

• Can be a bit more expensive

• Only one coat necessary, requires buffing after application

• Need to recoat over time (frequency of recoating depends on use)

Salve:

• Dries to a muted, low shine finish

• Slightly richens the paint color

• Comes unscented or scented

• Only one coat necessary, requires buffing after application

• May require recoating over time (frequency of recoating depends on use)

Polyurethane / Clear Coat
(water-based is recommended over light colored paint, as oil-based polyurethane can yellow)

• Offers a variety of sheens (matte up to high gloss)

• Durable protection, water resistant

• More prone to drips on vertical or detailed surfaces

• Requires multiple coats (3+)

(Want to see how some of the most common topcoats performed in a side by side comparison? Here’s a video from a fellow furniture painter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zik_BtrJUV8)

Refinishing Wood:

If you’re looking to have a piece restored or refinished, I’ll likely need to remove the current finish. Here are some things to note (as they will affect the labor cost.)

• If the piece has detailed carvings, curves, cutouts, beveling, etc., then I will need to either use a chemical stripping agent to remove the current finish or sand the areas by hand. This is very time consuming. (Chemical refinisher is applied, then finish is scrubbed off, inch by inch, by hand.)

• If the piece is comprised of straight edges, it is easier to sand down, and this takes less time.

Deciding on a topcoat for Wood pieces:

(all above topcoats can also be applied to bare wood)

Water-based Polyurethane:

• Does not yellow over time

• Dries more quickly 

• Thinner, more susceptible to scratches

• Water resistant

Oil-based Polyurethane:

• Offers the most protection against heat and water. (Spills will bead on its surface.) 

• Gives the wood an amber hue and can yellow over time. This warm hue might be welcomed on oak, pine, cherry, or walnut wood, but I wouldn’t suggest it over a very light wood, or anything white washed. 

• Longer dry time

• Thicker, more susceptible to dents

Polycrylic:

• Thinnest, dries very quickly (Not recommended for covering large areas (dries too fast!))

• Most prone to drips when applied to vertical surfaces (not as self-leveling as polyurethane)

• Takes a longer time to fully cure

• Water resistant, not heat resistant

Oils: Hemp Oil, Tung Oil, or Danish Oil

• Multiple coats can build up sheen

• Penetrates and hydrates the wood

• Can richen the wood color, saturating it, or giving it a warm glow

• Durable, provides protection to wood

Staining wood:

Wood must be bare, stripped and sanded of any existing finish, before stain can be applied. Woods that are best for staining and include oak, pine, walnut, and ash. Woods do not stain as well, or have a tendency to become blotchy, include birch, maple, cherry, and poplar. Each piece is different though, so if you want something stained, shoot me a message and I can help on a case by case basis!

Here are some of my favorite resources for seeing how different stains appear on a variety of woods: 

• How stains look on different pieces of wood: https://www.chrislovesjulia.com/6-different-stains-look-5-popular-types-wood/

• How stains look on different pieces of wood: http://withinthegrove.com/different-stains/

• Gray stains: https://www.thehandymansdaughter.com/grey-wood-stain-colors/

Stain options: Depending on the piece and desired look, there are water-based and oil-based stains, as well as gel stains (which are a bit more opaque), and washes (which can provide a stain like coloring to wood, but is technically a painting technique). If you have a project in mind that might require staining the wood, let me know so we can talk through the details and determine the best materials for the job!

little extras:

Above are the basics, but there’s so much more to customizing a piece! Here are a few ideas…

Waxes come in a variety of colors and can be used to antique or highlight a piece. Here is an example of a piece with the edges highlighted in two tones of gold:

Paint can be layered:

I can add a chasing paper to enhance the design elements:

Designs can be added anywhere you’d like, in any color. They can be applied using a stencil, tape design, or hand-painted.

Basically, if you can dream it, I want to help make it happen! I love having a source of inspiration (a changing table inspired by lilacs for example, as pictured above for a client) so if there’s something that makes you smile, or a color you love, or a sentimental piece of art you’d like to use to inspire a design…. let me know! If you want to send me images of furniture you’d like to use as inspiration, that’s always helpful too. Planning the design is the most important step in making sure you LOVE the results.

Need inspiration? Take a look at My Work and see if anything sparks an idea!

Talk the Talk!

Distressed

Simulates age and wear of a piece. The paint is sanded away from places wear would naturally occur (like the edges) and reveals the wood below.

Chipping

All about that chippy goodness! Milk paint can have a “chipping” effect, where the paint reacts during the drying process and peels away from the piece. While it can be unpredictable (you don’t really know how much or little chipping will occur!), it lends itself to an older, vintage style.

Antiquing

As old pieces age, dirt can build up in the crevices, creating a darkening look in those detailed areas. To recreate this look (without having to touch it with dirty hands for a hundred years), we can antique a piece by adding a darker wax or glaze into those crevices. Aside from giving it an older look, it can also be used to create depth and give contrast to details.

White Washed

This can take on a few meanings, both involve layering white over a piece. As a first layer, white washing can be done by watering down the paint so you can see still see the wood through the paint. It appears light and sheer. White wash can also be used as a second or third layer when white paint or wax is applied over the top of a piece. The more textured the piece, the more white can get into the crevices, giving it a more dimensional look.

Sheens

This is how much light reflects off the piece, how shiny it is. From least shiny to most shiny: Flat/Matte, Eggshell, Satin, Semi-gloss, Gloss.